MM6 Maison Margiela Autumn/Winter 2025: Leather, Sleaze, and Theatrics (Milan F/W)

At Pitti Uomo 107, MM6 Maison Margiela’s Autumn-Winter 2025 collection was a commanding statement of rebellion and refinement. Celebrated as “fashion’s sleazy underdog” by British Vogue, the brand’s latest offering lived up to its reputation with an unapologetic exploration of dualities, blending industrial toughness with sensual luxury.

This debut show was both a homage and a departure from Martin Margiela’s iconic fall 2006 collection at Teatro Puccini, trading all-white minimalism for an all-black presentation.

Cinematic Energy

Set in the industrial expanse of Florence’s Giardino dell'Orticoltura, the show’s mood was steeped in an almost cinematic darkness. A palette dominated by deep burgundy, black, and metallic tones created a provocative atmosphere, enhancing the collection’s themes of tension and contrast. The models, not simply walking but performing, infused the runway with cinematic energy, each one playing a character whose narrative unfolded with every step. Their animated presence made the show feel like the opening scene of a film, with each look inviting the viewer into a new world of uncompromising style.

Tailoring of Raw Materials

Drawing from the cultural touchstones of ‘70s disco sleaze, ‘90s grunge, and the refined cool of Miles Davis, the collection unfolded as a study in contrasts. Traditional tailoring was reworked through an industrial lens. It exhibited vinyl-like trousers and fabrics inspired by gaffer tape, introducing a raw, utilitarian edge. Yet, woven through these pieces were moments of luxury: faux fur accents, polished pagoda shoulders, and water suits evoking sensuality.

Accessories of Rebellion

The accessories were equally striking. Modular gloves, motorcycle helmets, and collar-tipped details acted as bold statements of rebellion, while also adding depth to the show’s narrative. These weren’t simply garments but expressions of character—pieces that balanced elegance and defiance.

Final Thoughts

While the collection’s monochromatic colour scheme reinforced its themes of industrial toughness and sensuality, the limited use of colour left room for further emotional depth. A pop of contrasting hues could have expanded the emotional palette, adding layers to the exploration of desire and duality. Additionally, while the show cleverly played with the fluidity of masculinity, it could have pushed these boundaries further by incorporating more androgynous silhouettes, questioning the rigidity of traditional gender roles.

Ultimately, MM6 Maison Margiela’s Autumn-Winter 2025 collection was more than just a fashion presentation - it was a bold manifesto for contemporary masculinity and identity. Through its compelling mix of industrial materials, luxurious detailing, and theatrical presentation, MM6 underscored that menswear is far from static. It is, in fact, a canvas for expression, one where complexity, contradiction, and subversion take centre stage.

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